Fixing the Water Supply

Fixing Plumbing The hot and cold water should be in the wall, not in the floor

Fixing Plumbing Free the pipes by removing the pipehooks from the support block. First bend back and remove the pipe

Pry the block from the floor. At this point shut off the water in the house. I also shut off the gas in the yellow line since I'm going to be using a torch near it.

Fixing Plumbing Pry the block from the floor. At this point shut off the water in the house. I also shut off the gas in the yellow line since I'm going to be using a torch near it.

Fixing Plumbing Remove the pipehook from the block

The pipes were disconnected under the floor. Since the new supply will be higher in the wall It was easier to solder it by sticking it up through the floor before soldering it in below. I used steel plates to shield the yellow gas line, wires and the rear wall from the heat.

Fixing Plumbing The pipes were disconnected under the floor. Since the new supply will be higher in the wall It was easier to solder it by sticking it up through the floor before soldering it in below. I used steel plates to shield the yellow gas line, wires and the rear wall from the heat.

You can't solder with any water in the pipe and there is still water dripping even though I opened up all the faucets in the house. What I forgot to open was the bathtub faucet right above me which was still holding water. Notice the clean end on the pipe. There can be no compromise on cleaning both ends of the pieces to be soldered. If they are not clean all the way around they will leak.

Fixing Plumbing You can't solder with any water in the pipe and there is still water dripping even though I opened up all the faucets in the house. What I forgot to open was the bathtub faucet right above me which was still holding water. Notice the clean end on the pipe. There can be no compromise on cleaning both ends of the pieces to be soldered. If they are not clean all the way around they will leak.

Fixing Plumbing Once I opened the spigots and took the cap off the drain all the water drained out of the pipe below

Fixing Plumbing I have a nice workspace in the crawl because of the white plastic liner of the radon system and a convienent light.

The water supply lines are now rerouted so they come up into the wall. I reused the block from above across the joists to support the pipes. I wrapped the hangar strap around a piece of hose to keep the dissimilar metals of the strap and copper pipe from touching and corroding

Fixing Plumbing The water supply lines are now rerouted so they come up into the wall. I reused the block from above across the joists to support the pipes. I wrapped the hangar strap around a piece of hose to keep the dissimilar metals of the strap and copper pipe from touching and corroding

When I disconnected the water supply from the toilet it was 'hangin in the breeze'. I screwed a piece of plywood to the joist with a tube strap to secure it.

Fixing Plumbing When I disconnected the water supply from the toilet it was 'hangin in the breeze'. I screwed a piece of plywood to the joist with a tube strap to secure it.

You can see the lines coming up from the bottom into the wall. I made sure the yellow gas line wasn't touching the copper pipes. The pipes will get very hot when I start soldering above.

Fixing Plumbing You can see the lines coming up from the bottom into the wall. I made sure the yellow gas line wasn't touching the copper pipes. The pipes will get very hot when I start soldering above.

Fixing Plumbing I protected the plastic pipe and yellow gas line from the heat of soldering with some steel plates and tile.

Fixing Plumbing Next I have to support the pipes in the wall and plug up the holes in the floor

Fixing Plumbing With the pipe now supported the toilet supply line sticks up out of the floor.

I cut a wooden cross support and fastened the copper clamps to it. I screwed one side of each clamp to the support. Then I ran a small hex head screw to tap the hole for the other side of the clamps. This will make it easier to tighten them down once the support is in place.

Supporting the sink lines I cut a wooden cross support and fastened the copper clamps to it. I screwed one side of each clamp to the support. Then I ran a small hex head screw to tap the hole for the other side of the clamps. This will make it easier to tighten them down once the support is in place.

Supporting the sink lines I removed the hex head screws and bent up the clamps.

I put the block in place in front of the pipes and bent the clamps over the pipes. Notice I also cut a vertical 2x4 to support the block.

Supporting the sink lines I put the block in place in front of the pipes and bent the clamps over the pipes. Notice I also cut a vertical 2x4 to support the block.

Supporting the sink lines I drove the hex head screws in with a small ratchet.

I used some 2-1/2" cabinet screws to secure the 2x4 and the cross brace block. Notice the yellow insulation at the bottom. I put this down in case I dropped one the the small hex head screws. I didn't want it to fall into the crawlspace.

Supporting the sink lines I used some 2-1/2" cabinet screws to secure the 2x4 and the cross brace block. Notice the yellow insulation at the bottom. I put this down in case I dropped one the the small hex head screws. I didn't want it to fall into the crawlspace.

I sealed up the holes around the pipes with some silicon caulk. This is code to prevent a draft up through the wall during a fire.

Supporting the sink lines I sealed up the holes around the pipes with some silicon caulk. This is code to prevent a draft up through the wall during a fire.