Install the shower arm and head Coat the threads with thread sealing paste.
Install the shower arm and head I gripped the satin nickle pipe with a rag to prevent scratching it up.
Install the shower arm and head Wrap some teflon tape around the threads.
Install the shower arm and head Snug the Kohler Awaken G90 showerhead. Don't crank it down or you can split the threads. In this case I used a 22mm wrench
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Inserting the stop tube on the Moen T2702NH shower trim.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Insert the key stop into the Moen T2702NH shower trim.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Slip the adjustable temperature limit stop over the key stop. If you insert it right or left of vertical you can limit the travel of the lever so the water doesn't get hot enough to burn you.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Place the lever handle adapter over the limit stop and screw it in.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Remove the screw.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. Place the handle on the adapter and run the screw in with an allen wrench / hex key.
Moen T2702NH shower trim. All done.
Shut off valves Shut off the water in the house. I cleaned off the crud and paint from the water supply lines with some emory cloth. We are putting compression fittings on that squeeze around the pipe to form a seal. I rolled the cabinet against the wall and marked where to cut the pipes. Remember that the pipe sticks about 1/2" into the shutoff valve so take that into consideration when you determine the length. You also want to make sure that there is room for the valves to turn.
Shut off valves I'm reusing the old valves because they didn't leak and are made of brass. I wire brushed the lime deposits off the threads and valve bodies. Compression sleeves are not reusable so I got a bag of 3 - Watts A-302 5/8 sleeves.
Shut off valves Here's the set of 3 cleaned up and ready to use. One for the toilet, and 2 for the hot and cold water supply on the sink.
Shut off valves The toilet supply line has drips of solder that have to be cleaned off for a compression fitting to work. Make sure the water in the house is shut off.
Toilet Shut off valves After I shut off the water in the house and drained the lines down I heated up the cap with a mapp gas torch and pulled the cap off with a pliers.
Toilet Shut off valves While the solder was still liquid I wiped the pipe off with a lightly damp rag which cleans off the drips of solder. Don't burn yourself.
Toilet Shut off valves You know the pipe is ready if the compression fitting slips over the end and the pipe is smooth.
Toilet Shut off valves You put the nut and compression fitting on the pipe. Place the valve on top and let it fall all the way down. Hand thread the nut onto the valve. Then hold the valve with a 13/16 open end wrench and turn the nut with a 15/16 or 7/8 open end wrench. Make sure you keep the valve handle pointing where you want it. Make this connection good and tight
Sink Shut off valves Make sure the water in the house is shut off. Use a small tubing cutter to cut the ends off the water supply lines.
Sink Shut off valves I can't use the tubing cutter on the hot line because it's running into the drain pipe. I just used a hacksaw on this one.
Sink Shut off valves The vanity was installed. Working under the sink I slip a nut and a compression fitting over the pipe
Sink Shut off valves I screwed in and tightened the water shutoff valves for the sink.
Install the faucet and drain This is the underside of the Moen 6100 BN single hole faucet from the level collection. Their instructions stink and don't show the actual picture of the black seal that goes between the faucet and the counter top
Install the faucet and drain This is the half moon washer / clamp that holds the faucet to the countertop. It has a steel side and a rubber side.
Install the faucet and drain With the black seal on top of the stone, stick the lines through the hole. on the underside of the top push the half moon washer up the threaded rod with the rubber side towards the stone. Thread the nut up the the rod.
Install the faucet and drain Make sure the spout is facing exactly to the front.
Install the faucet and drain Tighten the nut with a screwdriver throught the hole in the supplied nut driver tool
Install the faucet and drain Install the drain that came with the sink.
Set the countertop The top weighs around 60 lbs and is bulky.
Set the countertop Put dabs of silicone seal around the edge of the cabinet. You don't need to run a continuous bead. You just need enough so the top stays in place and can be easily removed for maintenance at a later time.
Set the countertop Slowly let the top down into the silicone and push it into the corner. Clean up the silicone with regular mineral spirits.
Set the countertop It's starting to look like something
Hookup the Water Underneath route the water supply lines through the hole in the shelf
Hookup the Water Thread the hot line on the left valve and the cold line on the right valve. Tighten the lines with a 5/8' open end wrench
Plumb the sink drain The P trap and wall tube (pipe that gets inserted in the wall drain) are 1-1/2 and the sink tailpiece is 1-1/4. I had to cut the wall tube to length. I ended up having to redo the sink drain a few times. Read on to see.
Plumb the sink drain The P trap and wall tube are 1-1/2 and the sink tailpiece is 1-1/4. I had to cut the wall tube to length. I ended up having to redo the sink drain a few times. Read on to see.
Plumb the sink drain If the sink tailpiece isn't long enough to reach the P trap use an extender. The metal tailpiece on the right is 1-1/4 and the P trap is 1-1/2.
Plumb the sink drain When I attached the P trap to the sink tailpiece the P trap didn't line up with the wall tube because it was running into the vertical cabinet support piece. The trap was also in the way of the drawer closing.
Plumb the sink drain I wasn't going to shorten the drawer without a fight. After studying the drain and making another trip back to Home Depot this is how I did it. The key is a 1-1/2" 45 degree slip fitting into a flexible drain trap. There's a 2-1/2" long piece of 1-1/2" drain pipe between the 45 elbow and the trap.
Plumb the sink drain This allowed me to turn the drain off to the right before it interfered with the back of the drawer. I have another problem. There is a slow leak up where the down tube joins the drain
Replacing leaking drain See the water dripping down the left board. There's water leaking from above. The drain assembly I installed a few days ago came with the sink. It leaked from day 1. I tried tightening it and putting plumbers putty on the threads but nothing helped.
Replacing leaking drain This is the drain that came with the sink. It's a nice large good looking dome. That's why I used it instead of the Moen part that came with the faucet. Problem is it leaks.
Replacing leaking drain Here are the new Moen parts
Replacing leaking drain I had to unscrew the faucet from the bottom so I could lift the faucet to insert the drain lift rod down the back of the body. There's a short right angle handle that inserts through a hole in the black seal that the rod screws into. I used some locktite red thread locker so the rod and the lever don't come apart.
Replacing leaking drain You stick the drain assembly up from the bottom of the bowl and screw the drain flange to the assembly from the top
Replacing leaking drain You have to seal the drain flange to the sink by rolling some plumbers putty and molding it around the edge of the flange
Replacing leaking drain You have to seal the drain flange to the sink by rolling some plumbers putty and molding it around the edge of the flange. Then screw the flange all the way into the drain assembly
Replacing leaking drain You tighten the brass screw so the black rubber washer seals against the bottom of the sink and pulls down on the flange sealing the plumbers putty to the bowl
Replacing leaking drain I used a little plumbers putty on the threads of the drain extension tube
Replacing leaking drain This is the drain linkage assembly. You drop the stopper down the drain with the tab facing the faucet. Unscrew the nut on the drain and insert the ball side of the lever into the drain so the ball goes through the hole in the stopper. Screw the nut back down to secure the lever to the drain. Attach the lever to the drain rod.