My backsplash is going to be 4" with the tile vertical so I'm cutting a 12" glass mosaic in thirds. I'm cutting on top of the corregated mat that the sheets of mosaic came with. You don't want to scratch your brand new top with a razor knife.
This is a quick mockup.
Since I don't have bullnose I'm using Schluter edging which gets mortared in behind the tile. It's plastic and I get a nice clean cut with a fine tooth hacksaw.
I clean up the edges with a file.
After the cuts I check my edges. It's easier to do this now than to do it while you have mortar or glue setting up.
The wall was patched after the mirror was removed so now it gets paint. This way you don't have to edge around the mirror and backsplash when they're complete.
The texture I sponged off is dry so I'm painting the wall.
Draw a rough guide line so you know how high to spread the glue or thinset. Remember you are going to space the tile 1/8" up from the stone top to allow a caulk line. Put some masking tape down to protect the stone top. Make sure the masking tape doesn't end up under the tile or you won't be able to get it out.
I mixed the thinset thick. The tape above the tile line makes cleanup much easier.
Spread the thinset on the wall. I put more at the bottom to compensate for the thickness of the edging.
Embed the edging in the thinset. Press it in.
Butter over the edging so the tile has something to stick to.
Add some thinset below the edging so the tile sits vertically. Lay 1/8" spacers along the bottom on the stone top.
I started with the end because I want the tile to be perfectly even with the highly visible outer `edge of the stone top. Lay the tile on top of the spacers. Push the end piece of edging under the tile.
Push a square against the tile so the whole piece is vertical.
The edging was sticking up and not perfectly flush with the tile. I put a weight on top and some wedge shims between the tiles to keep it all straight while it sets.
Remove the tape so it doesn't set with the mortar.
Very carefully sponge off the excess mortar above and below the tile. Leave the spacers in for now.
4 hours later the thinset is setup and the tile is cleaned off.
Masking makes cleanup much easier especially when you get grout on the painted areas.
The distance between the mosaic tiles is small enough to use unsanded grout if you want. I mixed the grout up a bit on the thinner side because I only have sanded grout. You want it thin enough so it penetrates but not so thin that it runs out of the cracks.
I pickup a glob of grout with my grout float and press it against the tile applying pressure so it forces it all the way into the cracks. Move the float up, down and at an angle which assures you get grout in all the cracks. You do this on the complete surface skimming off the extra as you go along.
Next I use my grout float to swipe across the tile at an angle to remove excess material. I inspect very carefully to make sure there are no voids. If there are now is the time to fix them.
By this time a lot of the grout mess is drying up. I like to vacuum the loose sand up to reduce the mess.
After about 10 minutes I use a damp sponge to lightly wipe the excess grout off the tile and masking tape. The grout is still wet so use very light pressure. Rinse the sponge in a bucket of clean water.
After another 10 minutes of so I use a damp sponge to lightly wipe the excess grout off the tile and masking tape. The grout is still wet so use very light pressure. Rinse the sponge in a bucket of clean water.
After about 1/2 hour I removed the masking tape on the bottom.
The grout is still wet but this is a good time to scrape the grout out from the crack between the top and the tile. This area will be caulked to prevent cracking. I use a sliver of wood broken off from a shim or paint stirrer.
Vacuum the mess up and lightly wipe the tile down again with a sponge.
Sponge to get the last of the grout off the tile.
Remove the masking tape while the grout is still soft.
Wipe the edging and the tile off.
I'll let the grout set up a few days and then seal it. After that I'll run a bead of silicone around the bottom.
I let the grout dry for a couple of days and now I'm sealing it. Wet the tile down with sealer for about 3 to 5 minutes to let the sealer penetrate.
Wipe off the excess sealer. It takes a few days to completely cure.
I mask the area where I'm caulking so I get a nice straight line. Put enough pressure to push the silicone caulk deep in the groove. Remember that this is what keeps a flood of water on the sink top from getting behind the wall.
I used a paper towel with mineral spirits to clean off any excess caulk.
I removed the tape and cleaned off the tile and the top.
I ran my finger along the caulk joint pushing the silicone into the crack and skimming off the extra. I used a paper towel with mineral spirits to clean off the area around the crack.
